Silencer & CAT

I bought the GBS silencer with the CAT built in & now I have my two fixed points to work from; the manifold & the rear wheel arch. Offered the silencer in place and marked where the manifold needs to be cut back:

There was just enough room to do this with the dremel extension:

Then a slot in the silencer so the clamp can squeeze it:

... and the GBS bracket which bolts into the floorpan with 3x M10 bolts/nylocs etc. It turned out I couldn't push the silencer onto the manifold with the bracket in place, so it had to come off again.

Silencer fitted - pipe clip & a smear of exhaust paste at the front...

Spring clip with an offcut of exhaust wrap at the rear....

It doesn't sound much quieter on the video - but it is - theres still some oompf there but its a gentler, rounder sound. The video is grainy because it was dark & low light in the garage when I took this:

I ran the engine long enough to get the heating up to temp, also for the first time had hot water through the cabin heater, I also ran the two new GBS maps for power and emissions; I couldn't immediately work out how to use the Lambda sensor - but had open loop readings coming through so its all set to have a play another day.

Everything worked fine except - my leak returned on the low pressure fuel pump - in the same place - the brass fitting on the outlet side of the pump - it will have to wait until I have daylight to fix.

Nearside rear wheel arch

I want to get the silencer fitted so I can tinker with the engine without shaking & waking the house and neighbourhood - makes sense therefore to install the wheel arches so I know how much room I have to play with:

First offered up - trying to get the front and rear edge on the edge of the panels & high enough to cover the hole for the shock absorber. I've seen builds cut a crescent out for the shock - but I don't see why - the wheel arch doesn't get in the way of the mechanism - it would have to be removed to remove the shock though:

Once happy I marked the potential positions for bolts, trying to miss existing rivets, chassis tubes etc - then drilled the wheel arch, placed it back in position and traced through the location for rivnuts. Then a problem - 

    I'm virtually out of rivnuts :(

Still just enough to get things going - 6 of them in place here, & minor issue with the frontmost one - it happened to be in virtually the same location as the seatbelt mounting bolt on the other side - I'll have to move it a little upwards when I have a few more rivnuts:

It doesn't look too bad - the front half fits perfectly, the top and rear is not so great partly due to the rear panel side not being completely flat & partly because it needs another bolt fitting once I have more rivnuts:

All set to fit the silencer...

Lambda sensor

There is plenty of opinion on Lambda sensors & prevailing knowledge from both GBS and the forums is they are not necessary once the engine has been mapped on a rolling road.

GBS also rekon the stock Power & Emissions maps are good enough to get through the IVA - although might need a little tweaking during the test.

I didn't want to invest in a wideband sensor, but like the idea of developing an emissions/economy map which 'knows' what is going down the exhaust. My ultimate plan is two maps:

1. Emissions & economy running the narrow band lambda at 14.7 AFR
2. Power map - initially the GBS one and maybe a rolling road tuned one later

The narrow band setup is much more reasonable & apparently longer lived than wideband, but much more limited in how it can be used - it really only measures 14.7 AFR.

Challenge #1 was to identify the Lambda plug on the GBS stock loom - its a Deutsch DTM & I found one being sold on Ebay for less than a tenner. The pins are meant to be crimped with a proprietary Deutsch tool which sells for £200 ! -  instead I crimped with pliers and added a small solder end for good measure - being careful not to let the solder wick back up the cable:

Screws into the manifold & then just needs a hole & grommet through the side panel back into the engine bay. I attached the pins to the cables on the bench then passed through the side panel for the socket assembly:

For IVA the sensor and sharp edges will need a little exhaust wrap.

Connections are thus:

Belt & braces working out the wiring - I traced & tested the loom cabling back to the ECU and as expected it was correctly terminated on the default pins.

     Lambda Signal - Sensor: Black  - Plug: Red                   - ECU: pin 7
     Signal Ground  - Sensor: Grey   - Plug: Blue                   - ECU: pin 18
     Heater Control  - Sensor: White - Plug: Green & White - ECU: pin 36
     Heater 12v        - Sensor: White - Plug Black                 - 12v switched feed

The loom routing:

Water syphon overflow

I picked up some more silicone hose from GBS, so quick first job today to route the water syphon overflow back towards the gearbox and down to the road:

IVA Forms prep'd

No progress today on the actual build; however this evening I bit the bullet and filled out the IVA application. Of course - there is a new form as of November last year so my previous preparation had to be re-done.

My thinking is worst case it can take weeks to get a test date so better off put in the application and then delay if I need to rather than wait until I'm completely finished then apply. When I rang VOSA last year they said there was no problem delaying a test date (with notice of course) - but I'll double check when they ring back for the fee.

GBS shared a mocked up IVA M1 with the basic information filled in as a double check, I also got advice to at least move on the IVA application to make sure there is no problem with my VIN number before moving ahead with the new design VIN plate.

I Downloaded the forms from here: VOSA Forms and completed:

1. IVA 1: M1 Approval application
2. IVA 4: Amateur build declaration
3. Nine representative photos of the build: Engine, Suspension, Chassis, Axles, Steering etc
4. Copies of receipts for the Kit, Transmission and major parts. Signed, dated and certified as copies
5. One covering note

I'll post them Monday which lights the blue touch paper and puts a little pressure on me to finish things off !

DVLA can wait a little while longer

Hindsight: Keep the revs at max power form entry as low as reasonably possible - it affects the noise test at IVA which is done at 75% of this rev setting. For Zetec 2.0 I recomend 165bhp @ 6,000rpm - which means the noise test will be done at 4,500rpm.

Bonnet exhaust opening

The bonnet opening for the exhaust manifold is next up; 

I cut an cardboard template which lined up with the bonnet catches and sat flush on the chassis tube, then cut the actual hole shape from an A4 sheet of paper - starting small and just cutting until I had the shape I wanted, fixed the paper to the cardboard template and marked up to make sure nothing could move as I transferred the pattern to the bonnet: 

The whole template could then be lined up with the bonnet catches and the shape traced on. I then re-measured about 3-4 times - front catch to front of opening, rear catch to rear, rough height, front of bonnet to opening etc... just to make completely sure I was right before cutting anything:

Once I worked out the floor was the best cutting position, I took the dremel at 25k rpm and a metal cutting disc to it; the sharper corners took some care but really no issues at all:

Back on the car - looks to be right first time - it will have some trim around this edge in due course to keep the IVA man happy:

Looks pretty cool; + now the engine has run a couple of times the manifold has an interesting surface colour from the heat:

I need some cap head bolts as bonnet locators then the bonnet will be completed finished.

Interior - gear lever gaiter and heater air hoses

The tunnel covering has been done for a while but just needed to glue in the gear lever gaiter:

Heater hoses going in both sides:

Rear wheel arch trim

The rear wheel arches are next to get on the car, that in turn will allow me to complete the rear light clusters, boot cover & silencer.

Each arch has a run of 'tadpole trim' on the inside edge where it meets the car; first up preparation cutting out the inside edge to let it take the correct curve. I also noticed the trim has one side it likes to lay flat on, no difference to its appearance but probably easier to stick if its on its natural 'lay flat' side.

Preparation

I cut the length about 5-10cm too long & will trim that once everything is bonded and cured:

Mask up just to make sure no bond gets on the arch:

Bonding

Bead of bond, then pushed the trim into it. I didn't need any clamps its so sticky everything held in place without, then ran an old rag around to remove & smooth the excess:

Result

This is the result from the visible side - looks good to me:

Same procedure used for the other wheel arch, then they just need to cure & I can fit them.

Found the IACV problem

First up today was to double check the IACV circuit; The problem turned out to be a bad 12v connection where I took a feed from the aux dashboard plug.

Re worked the link and its all back to normal again.

IACV Circuit final

Now its all working I wrapped up the circuit with fabric loom wrap to tidy it all up:

I'm taking 12v from the switched power line on the aux dash, I'm also borrowing one of the aux dash plug positions for the map switch cable, back to the ECU, then the 12v & IACV line follow the engine loom forward into the engine bay:

My plug on the IACV was pre-wired and I couldn't see how to dismantle, so went for a connection from my loom to the plug along with the flyback diode:

..of course - s*ds law - once I'd tidied everything up the IACV wasn't working - doh! & its too cold in the garage to mess about with the laptop & circuit testing - that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Update - Later I took the 12v feed direct from the Alternator 12v line (not the alternator output, the loom input) meaning the IACV is no longer running on the Aux panel fuse.

Exhaust Gasket

I obtained a new exhaust gasket from Ebay, identical shape to the old one however its constructed from a sandwich of gasket rubber type material with metal cladding - Ford part #1053902

Removed the manifold and ensured the head face & manifold mounting face were clean and flat. The manifold did have one bead of weld on it which I filed off, it also had a very minor bend along its length less than 0.5mm so should be good.

Fitted gasket & manifold and re ran the engine; there was a little smoke at first but then things settled down - I think its fine now:

I ran the engine for a good 10 minutes to get eveything up to temperature; the fan kicked in about 85-90º & as it warmed up I put in some rudimentary IACV values so it will run without the laptop attached.

Minor leak from the water hose take off for the heater - tightened.

The water gauge appears to be reading low, at least different from the ECU.

Addendum, got the fuel gauge working too - it needed another 5 litres of juice in the tank and tap the tank/rock the car to unstick the float - 5 litres is showing 1/8th of a tank right now which is a little low but good enough for now.

All seems fine & ready for someone who knows what they are doing to tune it for me.

IACV Test & Engine Run

Until this point I knew the engine turned over (see previous post) but since I was intending to use the IACV for idle control I have not adjusted the air intake butterfly valve at all.

IACV Control

I spent some time trying to get the IACV to work but no luck initially; sought help from RHOCar, but this time no luck there either.

I found on Emerald's website has a FAQ which runs through the basic setup process both the wiring and controlling the valve. 

Essentially:

    Set for 300hz frequency,  upload map, restart ECU

    Set for manual control, upload map

Then the valve can be tested with ignition on, but engine off, page up/down change the duty cycle in 1% increments. As per the FAQ, the main action is between 20% and 70% duty cycle, I can probably programme this range into the ECU Map in due course.

Engine Test

Time to test it with the engine running; i set the IACV manually to about 40% then started the engine, this time it kept running & I was able to control tickover manually with the computer connected to the ECU.

Result!

Now the engine was running for more than a couple of seconds I could do some other basic checks too:

1. Volts - 14v - presumably charging since over 12v nominal
2. Oil pressure - looks fine
3. Fuel - still empty?   
4. Water - cold - it is snowing today, so no surprise there
5. No sign of the alternator light, although I need to double check where it is on the Smiths instruments

I do have a great deal of exhaust escaping from between the head and manifold at the moment - thats not good. Re-using the OEM gasket was probably a bad idea.

Theres also a lot of muck deposited down the side of the car - I've no idea if I am running rich?

Watch your volume on this video:
The engine speed change is me manually moving the IACV from around 37-40%

This does confirm my IACV mounting and circuit though - so I can set those up more permanently. The next challenge is working out the settings to let the ECU control it automatically!

IACV Wiring

I am using the OEM IACV that came off the Zetec; Mine is then mounted back on the plenum via a bracket I constructed (IACV Mount, IACV Plenum)

I spent a long time trying to research the wiring for this thing, its a PWM coil based valve, 'some' forums mention 'some' valves need a flyback diode to prevent damage, essentially protecting the circuit and valve solenoid from reverse current when the power is turned off during its operating cycle.

Checking the Ford IACV it seemed to have the same resistance in both directions - which my basic electronics told me it doesn't have an internal diode and possibly no poliarity preference. More searching on the web turned up some pictures of the plug and wiring - I decided to go with the one that matched the socket I have & include a flyback diode thus:

I'm taking the 12v switched feed from the Aux panel connector - grey cable - to my black cable
The ECU switch from Pin 3 is my blue cable

Update Changed the 12v feed so it doesn't run from the Aux panel & Aux fuse - otherwise I'd lose IACV and tickover if the Aux fuse blows

Emeralds manual page shows connection of a switched 12v to one side & the other returning to pin 3 on the ECU (Note in setup later - the frequency needs to be 300hz not the default 120 pictured on this manual page)

ECU socket diagram to help work out the additional wires; I'm using pin 3 for the IACV control and pin 35 for the map switch. Emerald supplied me with half a dozen extra pins and moisture gromets for their plug; so this was a case of crimping on a couple of wires and carefully pushing them into the ECU plug from behind. The plug doesn't need any dismantling; the pins push in then 'click' permanently into place:

I still wasn't sure of my wiring, so for now I have the relevant loom leads trailing across the car and wired to the IACV cables & flyback diode with a chock-block. This will all be tidied up when I am sure I have the circuit correct:

Wiper motor park

The wiper motor was parking on the wrong side, it also had to come out anyway for IVA, so ran through the GBS instructions to flip the side it parks on.

Straightforward instructions but the hardest part was getting the circlip off the shaft at the back, eventually managed with needle nosed pliers & learnt in the process these clips go back on over the shaft rather than pulling the opening past the widest part (make sense?) pulling the circlip opening past the widest diameter on its shaft bends it past its spring point of return:

Dismantle, then this white plastic cam which activates the park switch is removed and re-attached on the other side of the gear:

Hindsight - actually the wipers need to park on the drivers side due to the very flat dimensions of the windscreen,  I should have left the park where it was! To make things worse the cir-clip which holds the main shaft in place doesn't like being re-used - pings off - and stops the wiper park from working; So I had to get a new one + fitting it means removing the wiper assembly from under the dash...

Its also even easier to change the park side by rotating the wiper gearboxes 180º - depending how much space is available.

Calliper spring clip

I just got around to fitting the nearside brake calliper spring clip; its just visible through the wheel here - after checking with RHOCar & consensus from various blogs this is the right way to fit them to stop the callipers rattling:

LP Fuel leak found

I had a tiny leak/weep/ooze of fuel from the rear end of the car, i.e. after 2 days a small 2cm drip patch on the garage floor;

There was a small meniscus of fluid on the edge of the diagonal plate under the low pressure fuel pump, the only place I think it can come from was the brass fitting attaching the hose to the pump - & it wasn't particularly tight so;

Loosened the jubilee clip and gave the fitting another 1/2 turn;

I hope I've got it, just a wait now to see if everything is fuel tight...

Update - It didn't work - seems like the brass fitting needs PTFE to stop it leaking.

Its alive !

Manifold

Last up today; the exhaust manifold - It went back on with the original Ford metal gasket & cap head bolts from GBS (see later post - problems here with the head seal) :

(note to self: that positive battery terminal is just close enough to the edge of the scuttle that if tightening/loosening it with a spanner its very easy to short circuit the battery through the spanner on the bodywork - I think I need a little rubber trim just there to prevent future issues)

First Start

.... Now there is nothing preventing a check of the engine...

Family audience watching from the driveway;

Fire extinguisher handy;

Attached the +ve battery lead;

Ignition on;

Dash lights up, all the dials sweep across their range and back to zero;

Volts showing 12v, No fuel (perhaps theres not enough in the tank to register);

Check the gearbox is in neutral,

Turned over the engine, and instantly fired into life !

Its a good job I'm partially deaf - nice meaty sound & although I only ran it for a few seconds it sounded reasonably smooth :) in fact - what do I know re smooth -  it sounded LOUD :)

Excellent!

BIG GRIN - bl**dy fantastic!

I haven't wired in the IACV so the car wont tick over without a healthy dose of accelerator. My air  intake butterfly valve shuts off all air intake, the intention being to let the ECU control the IACV for tickover.

No leaks anywhere either. (Update 24 hours later, one minor drip from somewhere on the LP fuel circuit)

I need a plan now to finish parts off; if I fit the silencer & sort out the IACV wiring I can run the engine a little longer (without winding up the neighbourhood) and check the ECU, Clocks etc are all working correctly.

Remaining major jobs for IVA

• Silencer
• Steering line up and tighten ball joints and track rods
• Brake fluid
• Boot area, finish spare wheel carrier, boot carpets & boot cover
• Wheel arches all round
• Dashboard fit
• Seats fit

I really should think about sending off the IVA forms; I need a new VIN plate too - my original had 2012 build year on it and one thing and another delayed me a little into 2013.

Bonnet fitting

My next milestone is to run the engine, which in turn needs the exhaust manifold in place; which in turn means I need to do the first fit on the bonnet; i.e. get the bonnet catches in the right place so later I have some fixed points to work from when cutting the exhaust opening.

Nose & Bonnet

The nose is back in position so I can locate the bonnet;

Ratchet straps to hold everything in place; pretty good fit all around, slightly higher (2-3mm) at the front - I wonder if I should adjust the nose height to let it sit flush?

Bonnet catch template

I read on some other builds its a good idea to create a template for the catches, get completely comfortable with the mounting hole spacing and tension on the catch before transferring to the car.

First blue tack to show me where the top catch sits:

Then a couple of goes before I was completely happy, & appropriately marked the template 'belt & braces' style so I don't use the wrong holes:

4mm Rivets

I used a scrap of wood for the distance away from the end of the bonnet - double checking appropriate clearance from where the exhaust will emerge on the nearside; then spirit level for a vertical and drew through my template for the 4x rivet fixing points:

Luckily the bottom hole was just under the chassis tube that runs behind this edge, with hindsight its probably worth checking the bottom most rivet definitely misses it before drilling.

The rivets for the bonnet catches are stainless 4mm - incredibly tough to pull & the catches don't make things any easier by not letting the rivet gun get 'in' far enough. I ended up using 2-3 spare nuts on some rivets & my lazy tongs riveter to get these in:

One down:

The front ones needed the front wheel off to get enough room for the lazy tongs riveter; got there in the end though:

I am also planning some pins inside the bonnet to locate its bottom edge; to make doubly sure it cannot move inwards/outwards and dislodge the catches - they can wait a while yet though.