Number plate light

One little fiddly job - installing the number plate lamp & testing:

I bought a number plate bracket but it turns out the radiuses are too small on it so will need to source another one; trip to CBS or Ebay is in order - I also need some IVA covers & one spade terminal to finish my dash switches.

Cycle wing brackets & final fit

The garage is hovering around 5-6ºC today, so should be just warm enough to keep the Sikaflex bond/glue happy.

The stuff I put on yesterday is solid enough to hold the wings so the straps & wheels can come off to give me access. Today is to finish the job with some angle brackets to increase the surface area the bond has to grip.

This is cut up plasterers beading - used for finishing outside corners but perfect for this job - light/galvanised only £1/metre and easy to cut & bend into the right shape. Picked up this idea from a discussion on RHoCAR & specifically a remark made by Shaft:

The brackets end up coated in bond, squeezed through the holes from behind - hopefully the wings will be firmly attached to the car once this cures completely:

I just want to leave everything pretty much alone & still now until this completely goes off. Certainly no playing with the engine today - anyway its more like 1-2ºC outside today so I don't really fancy rolling her out into the drive to tinker with the engine.

Front (Cycle) Wings

The so called Cycle wings!

I had been putting this off for a while now; its just not a great fit between the round wing brackets - which whilst very robust do not sit exactly square against the wheel  & the sport wings I'm using. Theres not much room for adjustment either - the wings have to cover the entire width of the wheel & must cover at least 30º from vertical at the front.

I prepared the bracket tubes with a little coarse sandpaper to give a keyed surface for the bond followed by white spirit on both surfaces to remove any dust; paper in place to avoid anything ending up on the tyre & went for it. 

I'm intending to bond the wings on; but also once this first fix is dry also use some plasterer's corner bead to make up some brackets and re-enforce the joint. The cornering is sitting bottom right on this picture and is perfect for the job - galvanised, holes for bond to push through, cheap & easy to cut in appropriate lengths:

First fix will be enough glue to hold the wings in the right place & let me get the tyres off later to reinforce the joint. The ratchet straps are not that tight - just enough force to hold the wing tight in place while the glue goes off:

Measuring stick back in use to try and get both sides looking the same (note: the front edge on the sport wings is not horizontal by design):

All up... - it looks cockeyed from this picture - I'm taking the shot from close up (I hope thats the reason anyway :)  :

I'm going to leave it all alone overnight before moving the ratchet straps, taking the wheels off and finish reinforcing the joints.

Hindsight - I should have looked at these from the side of the car and could have lined the arches closer to the tyre profile. 

Emerald Software on Mac OSX

The Emerald ECU mapping software is Windows only & I've gone Apple Mac at home for some years now; I work with Windows boxes all day and I just find the OSX/Apple platform easier to work with for most tasks.

The challenge was to get the ECU software running under emulation.

Virtualbox

I'm using Oracle Virtualbox which allows multiple operating systems and installed my copy of Windows XP on it.

I already have a Prolific USB to Serial Adaptor which can be coaxed into working directly with Virtualbox and the host operating system. 

Install the prolific drivers on both the Mac & Virtual OS;

The trick (& the bit that took most time to solve by copious googling)  is to add a USB filter to VirtualBox which only looks for the vendor ID. Connect the adaptor to the Mac & add it to the ports->USB->filters section. Then edit to remove all the values except Name & Vendor ID. This lets VirtualBox take control of the adaptor and present a COM port to Windows:

Final test today was to connect up to the ECU and check it all runs; no issues at all - at last I have decent laptop battery life with the MacBook & can easily swap between the Emerald software on XP & the rest of my stuff on OSX.

I have also setup a folder share so the Windows machine is actually loading & saving the Maps back to my Mac O/S directly:

Funny thing - Windows stresses me out something rotten; its just too associated in my mind with configuration/drivers/fiddling about rather than just getting the job done.

Wine

Update Feb 2018

No idea why I never tried this before Wine is available on OSX and Emerald's ECU software appears to run fine. That is even easier than spinning up a windows emulation layer.

Mapping the USB to serial adaptor requires the drivers install on OSX (as above) then a symlink setup into wine thus so it appears as COM3 to Emerald.

Symlink command: ln -s /dev/tty.usbserial ~/.wine/dosdevices/com3

There is a bug/feature - when loading maps or any files, I need to click on a different map first, then back to the one I want to force the software to load in the preview map names before loading. Probably some sort of Wine bug/workaround.

IVA Date booked

The IVA Test test is booked now - Thursday 21st March 2013

Its just against the clock now to get the car ready!

For anyone reading the blog outside the UK; the IVA in UK approves the car for road use, then comes the DVLA registration for tax purposes. IVA comes with its own list of regulations which must all be met:

IVA_M1_Inspection_Manual v8.02 Oct 2012.pdf

All the major work is done - just plenty of tidying up and checking which will keep me busy for the next month.

Biggest/next challenge is sorting out the engine cold start & mounting the front wings..

ECU

I spent some time this evening adjusting the ECU;

IACV Programming

IACV mapping went ok - the process, according to Emerald's documentation, is to run the engine from cold manually adjusting the valve to maintain the required tick-over & recording its position at 10º coolant temperature intervals.

These recorded points can then be entered into the IACV map, + some extrapolation for 0 thru -20 degrees and another value for startup.

The recording values was fine - unfortunately my engine doesn't like starting without a dose of throttle - even on the base maps - so I need to work on it a little more - its entirely possible my IACV doesn't let enough air in when totally open.

Narrowband Lambda

I setup closed loop on the narrowband for AFRs 14.6 - 14.8 on the existing map - essentially just the tickover/idling  ranges on the power map. The sensor seems to be very slow in reacting - could be the sensor or the averaging settings in the ECU - needs some more testing.

Then - the carbon monoxide sensor went off in the house - whoops - exhaust from my testing was getting into the house. Currently in my wife's bad books for stinking out the place :(    

Nothing finished yet - will try again another time...

Odds & S*ds - Tracking & Wings

Finishing various jobs today;

IVA Looming

I got an email from IVA Gillingham, asking me to get in touch and make an appointment for the test! Yikes - need to get a move on

First up was to turn the car around. My drive is on a slight incline so my thinking was if I have the front of the car just out of the garage it will be level enough to setup the tracking and give me more space either side to 'sight' the cycle wing positions.

This was the first time I manoeuvred the car out of the garage under her own power - so gearbox, clutch & brakes all put through their paces - in a very minor way.

Reversing light working, brake lights working

Slight weep from the now filled brake system - cured with a quarter turn on the pipe union.

Brake push rod

When I got the kit the very first job I did was the brake cylinder & pushrod - I cut the original rod far too short but now I have the brakes filled I created a pushrod of the correct length:

Adjusted the steel 'stop' in the pedal box which is adjusted to prevent the pedal moving too far back. The brake pedal is firm now - a good sign

Pinch Bolt backup

On to the final part of the pinch bolt modifications; I drilled and installed a couple of roll pins (just to the left of the pinch bolt/IVA cover in this picture). These 20mm 3mm diameter roll pins run through the casting and into the dummy upright - even if the bolt were to loosen they might save a catastrophic failure and give a little warning that something was wrong before the upright parted company with the wishbone:

Tracking

My first try at setting up the geometry; just basic front tracking for now. I obtained a TrackACE alignment kit and gave it a try. The principle is a laser bouncing from/to a fixed point and comparing the result between the wheels:

I spent some time finalising and torquing up the steering column and rack. Trying to at least start with the wheel close to centred. With hindsight I guess the car sorts the centering out itself when rolling & I'll need to adjust the steering wheel alignment again later.

Nearside first - everything is aligned so the laser travels twice across the car & hits the zero mark:

Then offside:

The result after my first attempt, I started at 2º toe in, and adjusted it back to 15' toe in - 2x complete turns on each track rod. I'm not sure yet the ideal position but its reasonably easy to adjust - by rotating the track rod assembly and winding each side in or out:

All booted up - the nuts will have to be covered for IVA due to the sharp/small radius edges:

Cycle wings

And last up while I had the front of the car outside I offered up the cycle wings. They really dont want to sit in any particular position so I'm going to sleep on it before making anything permanent. I think I'm close; sitting quite far back on the wheel (while also ensuring I have the appropriate 30º coverage at the front as required by IVA):

Without the nosecone the car looks very retro - like some 20s or 30s roadster with the big radiator up front.

Brake bleeding

I picked up a Gunson EEZIBLEED kit to help setup the brakes. It uses air pressure from a spare tyre to pressurise the reservoir and push the brake fluid through the pipes.

The reservoir has had some fluid in it for a couple of days and master cylinder take offs tightened to remove any obvious leaks.

On the Zero the rear callipers are installed upside down from their original design to allow correct routing of the hand brake lines. They have to be removed to bleed the brake circuit with the bleed nipple at the highest point to avoid air locks.

This is my jury rig propping the bleed nipple to the top and bracing the brake pads with an off-cut of wood to avoid any chance of the piston pushing out. I prepared both sides in the same way:

The EEZIBLEED bottle is primed with brake fluid as was the reservoir then the black line is connected to a tyre (20psi max) to pressurise the system:

Then its just a process of losening each calliper's bleed nipple until the fluid runs clear without air bubbles. The front's are easier & can be simply bled in situ. Very straightforward process, good piece of kit.

My last job is to re install the rear callipers; My original bolts were around 40mm, cut down from 50mm bolts; I prepared some new ones more like 43mm long, to be installed with lock washers & thread lock:

The acid test will be when I have the calipers back on & try reversing the car under its own power into the drive..

Update - those split washers came off for plain washers - split washers are worse than useless.

Front upright pinch bolts upgrade

There was a RHOCar Discussion on the front suspension pinch bolt, some comments about IVA liking to see a locking nut on the bolt & a great picture part way through of the consequences of the pinch bolt  coming loose and releasing the dummy top strut.

After reading it I decided to make some minor changes. The kit as supplied has M12x50mm bolts with lock washers under the heads. These sit completely flush with the back of the Sierra upright when installed.

My plan is to replace them with M12x65 bolts & add a lock nut on the rear side, as well as probably a couple of roll pins installed to positively lock the upright to the inserted dummy strut.

This is the pinch bolt as supplied in the Kit:

My original vs. replacement parts:

..and an example installed on the offside; the bolt still has the lock washer behind the head & torqued up as before, but also a nyloc on the other side. Hopefully this will ensure there is no way it can come loose:

I need to take the wheel off to install the roll pins which will have to wait; I'm using both axle stands on the rear of the car currently.

Swirl pot & Whitworth's legacy

GBS turned around my replacement fuel swirl pot really quickly from their supplier - so time to re-install the high pressure fuel system.

Sir Joseph Whitworth thankfully popularised standardisation in the 1800s, unfortunately the swirl pot manufacturer hasn't cottoned on yet and the mounting points on my replacement swirl pot are not in the same places as the old one. Its not big deal really just meant a little adjustment on the mounting holes to line up with the existing rivnuts:

Then replacing the high pressure fuel system itself;

There was some forum discussion on high pressure fuel pump mounting & I couldn't remember if I had used a GBS mounting kit for it, or just assumed the mounting mechanism..

I decided to use an alternate approach which I saw on David Smeatons blog; a couple of 54mm exhaust clamps.

Before:

After:

Back to square one again and checked out - I ran the engine a couple of times today and so far no leaks!

Differential breather check

The small drip from the differential might be overfill, might be blocked breather... might be - who knows.

I checked the breather today - all seems clear - so inconclusive so far;

Sieve

I thought I was building a car,  turns out every chance they get the liquids want to leave, temporarily its behaving more like a sieve :)

So far it looks like this:

Updated - 24/2/13

Diff flange plate nut - new & to be solved

I have a slow drip now from the front of the diff - not around the seal, but the end of the flange plate  near the centre nut. Its about 2-3 drops every 24 hours. The diff seals are new - I suspect its getting through the splines somehow. I also suspect I'll need to at least unbolt the propshaft to remediate it which will be fun through the top of the transmission tunnel - hopefully I can resolve it without removing the diff entirely.
Update - I think it was over filled, once I had checked the breather was clear and set the car back level its stopped dripping

Cooling system - thermostat housing - needs re-assembly

The pipes/hoses are fine, just needed tweaking on the bottom rad hose and it was all good. Thermostat housing, very slight ooze when everything is up to temperature. I suspect I need to sand the thermostat middle plate flat (seen this method on Paul94's blog) and probably add some instant gasket for good measure.
Update - Turned out it was one of the temperature sensors that was leaking & just needed tightening a little; if it re-occurs I'll re-install the sensor with some gasket paste.

Brake fluid - pending filling/bleeding

This one is much easier and expected - as the fluid goes in the various brake line connectors need tweaking. I put some PTFE around the brake light switch before I started; I've read this can leak if its merely tightened into the union.
Update - No real problems; I've yet to 'stand on the brakes' but so far everything is fluid tight with a firm brake pedal.

Fuel system - pending re-assembly

The new swirl pot has arrived from GBS & the Facet fuel pump is rock solid now, so should be good on this one once its re-assembled.
Update - New swirl pot in place and everything is fuel tight again

Engine oil

Touch wood - no issues here !

Lesson for the builder - liquids in early while there is room to work around the components. 

Not too downhearted - just need to work each problem.

Aux Panel - fan wiring

I'm using a PWM motor controller to drive my heater fan; it takes a 12v feed & ground spliced into the lighter socket wiring with the positive line via the panel switch. I picked it up from Ebay and its good for 10amps @ 12v which should be plenty for the heater fan - it will take out the lighter socket fuse before it gets anywhere near that.

The rotary knob on the side varies the fan speed but I'm expecting to leave it set once I find an appropriate speed:

I was so focused on mounting the fan controller board and wiring it I didn't even think to take another ground line for my boost/map button !  doh!

The only button with backlighting will be the fog lamp switch - IVA requirement, the others will have to wait until after IVA when I feel like re-wiring this panel.

All out of spade terminals now,   I must be getting near the end of the build I keep running out of parts.

Drivers seat

Seat

The drivers side seat up next, theres less room to work due to the steering column & since the passenger seat is already in place.

The front edge is same as before - sliding the seat runners at fully forward (seat fully back position) - positioning the seat against the  back panel and marking the position of the front holes on the floor:

I then drilled the front positions with a 4mm pilot hole and lined up my template, taken from the underside of the seat, to locate the position of the rear holes. Those two M4 bolts in the front holes are just to line everything up:

The mounting bolts are M8, rear bolts dropped in fine, the front holes needed opening up a touch to let the seat rotate on the back bolts and let the front bolts drop into place:

This was a much better method than the passenger seat!

Seat belt

Reference shots of the belt mounting bolts:

The result - both seats & belts now installed:

Rear lights

IVA restricts the rear lights to minimum 350mm above the ground, max 1500mm and minimum horizontal distance to the fog lamp of 100mm.

Roll out the measuring stick again, I marked out a position more like 420mm high - where the lights sit virtually horizontal - i.e. not pointing up or down - on the wheel arch curve:

The easiest way to mark out the drill holes seemed to be a paper template created by pushing through into the holes on the lamp unit:

Then lots of double checking, measuring, spirit level etc before the holes & not forgetting to flip the internals on one lamp upside down so the brake and indicator bulbs are in the right places and change the default bullet connectors for spades while everything is easily accessible on the bench:

 I think we're ok... 

Consulting the GBS loom instruction sheet has the wiring layout for the plug, then it was just a case of wrapping everything up neatly and securing the cabling with P-clips on the lamp mounting bolts:

I'm all out of P-clips, so could only wire up the offside for now.
   -or-
Perhaps I should shorten the loom from the lamp?