Sunday, 1 October 2017

Gotthard Pass 2,091m - ~50 year gap

After Stelvio I drive through northern Italy, around Lake Como then across the border into Switzerland. The day starts wet - not really cold - just wet enough to be interesting driving - I think I had the tonneau side doors on for part of the morning just to stop spray running down my back/legs.




Lake Como

My route touches the north end of Lake Como, then along its western shore before heading off toward Switzerland. Reasonably early, so a bit of a grey day -  no complaints though - its getting dryer!

Bit of messing about to find a photo op!


Then east at Menaggio, turn north at Lugano...

Gotthard Pass




Precedent

At some point in the 60s - based on he had a MkIII Ford Zodiac at the time which were new in 62 and it was before he got married in 67/68 - Dad had gone on his own road trip to Switzerland. Notes in the front of an old tourist guide seem to detail some of the route - it seems like he may have gone Lugano, Andermatt (via Gotthard), Zurich...

So this was a sort of pilgrimage, treading in his footsteps.

The architecture in Switzerland: half timbered chalets, wooden shingle siding, inverted V style door designs betraying themselves in the design of the family home Dad built. The house is even named after an alpine flower...

I wonder if he thought about taking his motorcycle?

The country must have made a huge impression on him.
I should have asked him more about his trip in detail.




Low Cloud

The weather had brightened up at low level, and some great views over my shoulder as I ascended, but once I hit the cloud half way up it was nose to tail traffic and thick fog to the top. The road transitions to cobbles part way up - not that I was going more than 5-10mph most of the way.

Proof! - I really was there, but had to park next to the sign to get it visible in the same shot. I hope Dad got some better views than me back in the day!

Sat in the motor for a bit - sandwiches for lunch and remembered a little.
A few tourists approached for a chat and a sit in the motor for memento pictures.

A real pea-souper - this view just across the road at the top of the pass, in theory theres a lake up here somewhere too - but don't really want to find it by stumbling into it.

Onwards, towards Furka!

Saturday, 30 September 2017

Stelvio Pass 2,757m

Heading roughly west today through Italy and via Stelvio Pass.
This is higher then I've driven before - 2,757m and the highest point on the whole trip.


Looking back at the route up, The drive was clear for around two thirds of the way and then I got stuck behind another car so focused instead on the view,

..and near the top - bright weather again a little chilly though!


Then onwards, the descent was a clearer run and more enjoyable than the ascent - I head west still in Italy towards Bormio - my hotel just outside the town, no one speaks english - but everyone very friendly and patient with my poor language skills - I even get the offer of the underground garage to overnight the Zero!

The view into Bormio lower in the valley and a short wander to the old church to stretch my legs.

The Videos page has some footage of the ascent and descent.

Friday, 29 September 2017

Millstat am See

The road west now, first leg is to get me closer to Italy and Stelvio Pass.

Takes a while to get out of Vienna, but then back into the usual rhythm of petrol stops every 150 miles or so, and pickup some packed lunch from a supermarket on the way.

I stop at Millstat am See, a small town on the edge of the lake, seems like they have some sort of major water-sports and diving going on some time of year. The light was just fading as I arrived and by the time I'd put the tonneau back on the car it started to rain.

I'm staying art Pension Pleikner which is right on the edge of the lake. Really friendly owner who once more very patient with my lack of language skills.

The view from breakfast is perfect - starting to get back to mountains now


Tuesday, 26 September 2017

Vienna!

We made it - one driver, one passenger (my wife) and GN13.
3 days and more than few interesting places and roads on the way.

Typically the outskirts of the city taking what seemed like an age to traverse - but before the light went  found the hotel on the Danube. Unpacked and left the motor until the return trip on Friday.



Midweek was work, an IT conference, few meals out and a chance to see some of the city one evening. (That joint was between two of us, and even then we didn't finish!) 

Bit of window shopping,  some goulash in a small restaurant was very good!

Natural history museum worth a wander...




Found some moon rock! (very cool, I'm a bit into Space stuff) Boggles the mind to think Astronaut Dave Scott picked this up from the moon when I was about 2 years old. i.e. a human physically picked up a rock from 250 million miles away and brought it back to earth!


Interesting place - but cities are not really my thing, after 3 days of packet conference - noise, people etc - cannot wait to get on the road again!

My wife flew back, so the return leg was just me and the motor - next stop - Italy.

Monday, 25 September 2017

Hallstatter See

Heading east, next quick stop for lunch near Hallstatter See,
These pictures speak for themselves!



Quiet little spot on the eastern shore for a packed lunch.

Castle of the Eagles - Hohenwerfen

Nothing really to do with driving - but this was a key waypoint on the original Austria road trip plans and on the bucket list - so was always going to be on any to-do list if I was in this part of the world.

Watch/read up on a late 60s war movie starring Richard Burton, Clint Eastwood, Mary Ure and Ingrid Pitt. "Where Eagles Dare" is your classic wartime adventure with a twist. A favourite film in my house growing up the networks always seemed to broadcast at Christmas. The picture was filmed on location around Werfen, Lofer and the general region - with the external castle filming all at Burg Hohenwerfen.


Skip to later in the day - very happy - Hohenwerfen is a fantastic place to visit, not just for the movie link, but incredible clear views of the mountain from the clock tower, the scenery is just awe inspiring.

On approaching Werfen the first thing you see, the so called "Castle of the Eagles" perched on a clifftop above the town. I wanted to capture the scene, so turn right instinctively across the bridge to the station to try and find a good vantage point!

The bridge is where Eastwood and Burton first walk across into Werfen and make their play to avoid the guardpost on the far side. The bridge is new - but its the same location.

GUARD:
Show me your papers.
Right.
SMITH:
I've written her many times of course, but...
...with so many troops on leave in Berlin,
it was hardly likely she'd remember me.
But one always hopes
you're the one she'll never forget.
SCHAFFER:
Yeah. What was her name, anyway?
SMITH:
-Fred.



A wander around the station - it looks familiar because again its a location from the movie, I'm off in a world of my own now - daydreaming and nosing around!

The assault team descend on the far side, cross these railway lines and stash their bombs/kit in a shed which used to sit very close to where I had parked the Zero.

The castle visible from Werfen, a quiet place - single high street a few eateries, alpine hat shop and thats about it.

The film cable car was in another location and superimposed - but - there is a cable car/inclined railway which takes visitors up to the castle. So parked up...

Its electric, runs on rails but close enough and an excellently dramatic way to arrive.
It actually makes the perfect tie in electric motor sound effects from the courtyard.

The guided tour is a must to see more of the interior and learn a bit of real history - but - just getting this far, and standing in the courtyard recognising locations - love it!

My patient wife humouring me/my enthusiasm, thats twice in as many days I think I'm behaving like an exited schoolboy!

The gift shop door is the entrance to the cable car in the film.

Courtyard and route to the outer bailey and bird of prey demonstrations had we more time,







Werfen high street on the right just beyond the new main road, the bridge just after the bend in the river leads to the station on the left. The even newer main road snaking through the tunnel on the far left - they don't know what they are missing!


Part of the guided tour takes the party to the top of the clock tower, where with luck of the weather the mountains just sit there - bright/crisp in the Autumn sun. It almost felt unreal - so clear - those mountains must be miles away but they look like you can reach out and touch them!



SMITH [OVER RADIO]:
-Broadsword calling Danny Boy.
Broadsword calling Danny Boy.
Broadsword calling Danny Boy.
...
[EXPLOSIONS lN DISTANCE]
[RAPlD GUNFIRE]
...
ROLLAND [OVER RADIO]:
Danny Boy calling Broadsword. -Over.

SMITH:
Everything ready.
We need transport. 
Understood? -Over.

ROLLAND:
-Understood. 
Do you have it? -Over.

SMITH:
We have it. We have it all. -Over.

Oh yes!


I'd scheduled a short day of driving - only 200 or so miles vs 300 for the drive into Vienna, Hohenwerfen Castle could just not be missed! Can recommend - we could have easily spent most of the day there.