Radio installed, horn push working, IACV re-wired

The primary change going on was the Radio installation, while I had the aux panel off I also re-wired the switches to show when side lights are on & in the process moved the IACV 12v feed off the Aux Fuse & wired up the steering wheel centre horn push

Steering Wheel Horn Push

This just needed the steering slip ring terminals connecting to the button & Orange loom line connecting to same. The column itself turns out to be grounded so no need for anything else.

IACV

The IACV was working fine but originally I took its 12v permanent feed from the Aux panel circuit. I reconsidered this thinking if the Aux fuse blew due to using the lighter socket etc then I'd lose tick over on the engine too.

IACV 12v feed is now taken from the Alternator switched 12v input (not the battery line, but the fused line to the alternator rectifier.

Aux Wiring

I Re worked the Aux panel wiring as I went, using alternate connectors, these pictures were for reference more than anything else so if I needed to revert to the original configuration I could. I left the crimped spade connectors on the lighting groups - purple, blue, green etc & covered with shrink wrap - theres no point disturbing things that are working fine:

Moving to 3x waterproof connectors with 4 pins each - roughly power on one, switch signals on the  next & stereo speakers on the last. I pulled in a new permanent live feed; Dip beam signal drives the fog lamp, side lights drives the illumination:

Re-assembly

Everything re-assembled & tested:

Night view, as soon as the side lights are on they drive the back lighting on the Aux panel switches as well as the dash clocks:

... and a better demonstration of the brighter lights when depressed (bottom left is the heater fan):

The only pending items now are:

A polyswitch fuse (on order from Ebay) to sit across the FIA isolating switch and provide power to the radio & immobiliser even when its red key is removed. This will let the Radio remember stations and the immobiliser led flash.

A simple high pass filter on the speakers to allow even more volume - depending on my experience using them though.

Revision to the fog lamp button - see post note on the dimmer circuit to work in full tale-tale/indication mode for this lamp to meet MOT regulation.

Mountney Steering Wheel

First of the upgrades - off with the stock Sierra wheel and I'm installing a 12" Mountney in its place. This is the same model wheel I had on my old Spitfire, worked well enough then so sticking with it.

I kept the horn slip ring from the old wheel however its not actually wired in currently, just will save me taking the wheel hub off again if I decide to use the horn centre push:

Straightforward unbolt & torque back up again ensuring the indicator cancelling cam is in the right place.
I upgraded the supplied wheel to boss bolts with black button head allen bolts with shake proof nylocs on the reverse - just to match the style elsewhere on the car & nylocs 

Much better!

I just need to pick up a GBS centre badge at some point and we'll be good.

Electrics - on and working!

Ignition switch connector

Once the ignition switch was re-wired the car could, in theory, be started - or at least the electrics turned on and some basic tests carried out:

The spare pink is for an optional remote start button which I am not using; everything else wired across according to the GBS instruction sheet. I write on the sockets too as a belt & braces double check:

Chassis loom routing

Then some tidying up of the front wiring loom; I wanted to at least get to the horn & test it:

This looks simple but took ages to route everything neatly. The front chassis loom has been languishing for weeks now not being properly fixed, its good to finally be in a position to connect it up:

Stock GBS horn, seems loud enough to me;

Power on testing

Then it was time for a couple of tests;

Before I connected the battery I just tested the resistance across the car loom battery connectors to make sure there were no short circuits - checked out fine - infinite resistance so at least things shouldn't go bang.

1. Battery connected,
2. Ignition on,
3. Clocks all flicked over & back; Speedo showing 0000 miles, Revs showing oil warning (its not connected or filled yet), Battery warning & indicator tel-tales when the hazzards selected
4. Fuel pump ran ( I didn't leave it running for more than a couple of seconds since theres not much fuel in the tank currently)
5. ECU running
6. Horn works ! :)

Its not an exhaustive test but very positive non the less, Very happy, first life in the car!

I think the next up test will be with more fuel in the tank & let the system pump through & prime the swirl pot/check for leaks etc.

(Disconnected battery live for safety)