Upgrade fuel lines

I noticed some surface cracking on the fuel line from the HP pump to fuel rail; no leaks, however on one of the hot days on the Scotland run I also had under bonnet fuel smells & the same fuel smell on my hands after touching the outside of the pipe.

Time for a change.

The original flexible fuel pipes came with the kit and spec'd at SAE 100R6 - this appears fine for unpressurised/fuel type parameters - but possibly not ideal in terms of fuel permeation and from my reading not really the right spec for any fuel injection system. All the pipes coming off showed signs of the outer cracking, inside looked fine to the eye - so possibly it was the only HP line which was suffering from permeability?

Researched fuel hose specs. seems like SAE J30R9 is a better bet for an injection system - so decided to replace the lot.  

Reasonably straightforward job using the old ones for patterns; the biggest challenge being working space around the built up engine & rear suspension area, and getting the old ones out without spilling fuel everywhere.

Re routed the HP Pump to fuel rail line to give it a larger radius bend while I was at it.

Clearly marked to the J30R9 standard

I changed the rear end flexible lines in a similar way & took the opportunity to replace the fuel filter while I was at it. 9k miles left the inside of the old one black in the bottom half/third. I guess thats either gravity dropping the muck to the bottom, or an airlock in the filter.

At the very least peace of mind.

Useful reference: http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htm

MPG Economy

I'm running the stock GBS Power-map day to day; the IVA passing map is filed away for when I need that very lean low end for emissions testing.

Finally this week I got around to some range and economy testing; the MPG important because fuel moving in the tank combined with a badly calibrated gauge means knowing roughly when the next fill up is due is useful.

One run only, mixed driving A roads, stop/start, 30-50mph etc:
I bottled out of driving until the tank was completely empty but it must have been close:

158.8 miles range

23.44 litres fuel

Gives: 30.8 mpg,  9.17 litres/100km, 10.9 km/litre

That will do - no need for the rolling road just yet.

Full	3/4	1/2	1/4	Empty	Refilled	Litres	MPG
0	55	75	126	158.8	158.8	23.4	30.8
159	230	250	-	-	267.3	15.3	32.2
0	-	-	-	-	-	-	-

Fuel gauge circuit

The Fuel gauge hasn't worked properly at all so far, initially I thought it was due to no fuel in the tank but theres a good 5 litres in there now and not a flicker from the gauge.

I worked through the circuit methodically: Sender, loom, dash connector, dash loom, guage -  and s*ds law the issue turned out to be the loom connector to the gauge - the very last part I tested. The pin wasn't inserted all the way home in the gauge socket so not giving the gauge a good/any signal.

Easy fixed once found though & with the sender out of the fuel tank I could fully test the gauge over its whole range.

I'll re-install the fuel sender in the thank & then its good to go. Minor problem solved.

Swirl pot & Whitworth's legacy

GBS turned around my replacement fuel swirl pot really quickly from their supplier - so time to re-install the high pressure fuel system.

Sir Joseph Whitworth thankfully popularised standardisation in the 1800s, unfortunately the swirl pot manufacturer hasn't cottoned on yet and the mounting points on my replacement swirl pot are not in the same places as the old one. Its not big deal really just meant a little adjustment on the mounting holes to line up with the existing rivnuts:

Then replacing the high pressure fuel system itself;

There was some forum discussion on high pressure fuel pump mounting & I couldn't remember if I had used a GBS mounting kit for it, or just assumed the mounting mechanism..

I decided to use an alternate approach which I saw on David Smeatons blog; a couple of 54mm exhaust clamps.

Before:

After:

Back to square one again and checked out - I ran the engine a couple of times today and so far no leaks!

Sieve

I thought I was building a car,  turns out every chance they get the liquids want to leave, temporarily its behaving more like a sieve :)

So far it looks like this:

Updated - 24/2/13

Diff flange plate nut - new & to be solved

I have a slow drip now from the front of the diff - not around the seal, but the end of the flange plate  near the centre nut. Its about 2-3 drops every 24 hours. The diff seals are new - I suspect its getting through the splines somehow. I also suspect I'll need to at least unbolt the propshaft to remediate it which will be fun through the top of the transmission tunnel - hopefully I can resolve it without removing the diff entirely.
Update - I think it was over filled, once I had checked the breather was clear and set the car back level its stopped dripping

Cooling system - thermostat housing - needs re-assembly

The pipes/hoses are fine, just needed tweaking on the bottom rad hose and it was all good. Thermostat housing, very slight ooze when everything is up to temperature. I suspect I need to sand the thermostat middle plate flat (seen this method on Paul94's blog) and probably add some instant gasket for good measure.
Update - Turned out it was one of the temperature sensors that was leaking & just needed tightening a little; if it re-occurs I'll re-install the sensor with some gasket paste.

Brake fluid - pending filling/bleeding

This one is much easier and expected - as the fluid goes in the various brake line connectors need tweaking. I put some PTFE around the brake light switch before I started; I've read this can leak if its merely tightened into the union.
Update - No real problems; I've yet to 'stand on the brakes' but so far everything is fluid tight with a firm brake pedal.

Fuel system - pending re-assembly

The new swirl pot has arrived from GBS & the Facet fuel pump is rock solid now, so should be good on this one once its re-assembled.
Update - New swirl pot in place and everything is fuel tight again

Engine oil

Touch wood - no issues here !

Lesson for the builder - liquids in early while there is room to work around the components. 

Not too downhearted - just need to work each problem.

Swirl pot out

The swirl pot is on its way back to GBS for a replacement due to the leak:

Good job I had my jubilee clips all accessible; the challenge was getting the 2 litres of fuel out of the thing in an orderly way. The top 3 pipes all let out a cup full or so, then I took the HP fuel pump out with the pot so I could save the bulk of the fuel & drain it out in a controlled way.

The steering column had to be detached to give enough room to lift it out:

Unleaded fuel stinks :)

Leaks

LP Fuel pump

First thing was to re-work the LP fuel pump, brass fitting removed, more PTFE, re-assembled and a short engine run to test. This time I think I've got it - everything still bone dry, I just need to get another cotton reel rubber mount and it should be good

Coolant

Fuel is all good - but I had a small leak on the coolant system from the bottom hose on the radiator; meaning there was a puddle waiting for me at the front of the car this morning, nose off, tightened the pipe clamps and again, should be good now.

The nose is staying off for a while so I can see everything on the next engine test.

Fuel system leaks and trouble

Low Pressure Pump

My low pressure fuel pump was still leaking, and so much the fuel actually destroyed its mounting rubber. Consulted RhoCar - its probably not an issue with the pump but rather the brass hose tail which screws into it needs PTFE to seal the joint.

First go - stopped about 80% of the leak, but not quite perfect - it will have to come off again and have a few more winds of tape:

This is the destroyed mounting rubber for the fuel pump, the petrol was welling on the top of the rubber which miss shaped it and completely detached the top mounting plate; I'll have to find another one from somewhere:

Swirl Pot

While testing the LP pump with engine running I took a look around the whole car & noticed a yellow residue at the bottom plate of the swirl pot... hmmm... where is that coming from?

It looks like the swirl pot has a weep/leak when under pressure from the weld join on the top edge (hi-lighted in the red box).

This will have to come out - whether its repaired or replaced it will need draining and removing. 

Bother ! - didn't really need this extra job.

I'll have a chat with GBS and see what the options are. I think its a manufacturing defect.

LP Fuel leak found

I had a tiny leak/weep/ooze of fuel from the rear end of the car, i.e. after 2 days a small 2cm drip patch on the garage floor;

There was a small meniscus of fluid on the edge of the diagonal plate under the low pressure fuel pump, the only place I think it can come from was the brass fitting attaching the hose to the pump - & it wasn't particularly tight so;

Loosened the jubilee clip and gave the fitting another 1/2 turn;

I hope I've got it, just a wait now to see if everything is fuel tight...

Update - It didn't work - seems like the brass fitting needs PTFE to stop it leaking.

Fuel & Coolant

Topped up with 3-4 litres of fuel in the tank & thus-far no leaks

Coolant added, approx 50-30% antifreeze - again no leaks so far - but then I wouldn't expect any until its actually pumped around.

This stage is just preparation for starting - I wanted to slowly add the liquids & check for leaks before moving on.

HP fuel return line re-route

When re-working the loom under the plenum I re-thought the fuel line routes & I think this is an improved layout for the return from the fuel pressure regulator to the swirl pot.

This time it goes along the outside diagonal chassis rail, I think this keeps things tidier and clear of the steering column:

The diagonal round chassis rail under the plenum takes the wiring & clutch cable.
The diagonal chassis rail on the side panel takes the fuel return & accelerator cable.

High Pressure Fuel Lines

Completing the high pressure fuel circuit:

It looks close to the clutch cable, but infact the fuel line cannot touch it - I'll probably double check before going to IVA.

Decided on routing around the outside of the plenum:

Note - I re worked this last line (Here) - the return from the pressure regulator to the swirl pot later in the build. Still going over the plenum, but then following the outside diagonal chassis tube on the other side of the steering column to give more clearance. 

Part way through I thought the lines might want to sit lower under the steering column, i.e. as they enter the engine bay drop right down to the bottom chassis rail. That is the route taken on the factory build cars - I'm still thinking about it...

Fuel Regulator vacuum line

I'm using my own IACV mount so have a spare vacuum connector on the plenum - a little 5mm nylon pipe to the right length into the fuel pressure regulator:

I dont think the vacuum compensation is a must have; its also probably highly dependent on the plenum design and designed for the OEM intake manifold - I can't see any harm in connecting it though.

Intake & Plenum prep

Clearance

Next up is the plenum, High Pressure fuel lines to the fuel rail & intake side loom. There is no clear part to go first so I spent some time checking clearances & positions of various items before anything is fixed:

Bonnet on to check head/side room, on the GT chassis there is plenty of room all around the intake side, the bonnet virtually sits flat on the top of the timing belt cover at the front of the engine though:

HP Fuel line layout

Space established, I need to decide on the lines from the swirl tank to the fuel rail. I have already decided (I think) to feed the OEM fuel pressure regulator at the front of the engine, and take the return from the rail at the rear via the cut down fuel rail tube.

Three options present themselves for routing the lines:

A. Take the line along the chassis tube and a gentle arc around the outside of the plenum: <- This
     I like this option - looks neat, no tight turns and leaves the other side of the plenum for wiring

B. Still take the line along the chassis tube, but inside the plenum line up to the regulator:

     Experience on RHOCar shows this option has been done before & known to be ok

C. Take the line across the top of the fuel rail and loop back to the regulator: <- Not this

     Unlikely option - the loop just looks messy 

The decision (between option A. & B.) will be based on any consensus from RHOCar & I may also ring GBS to check.

There seems to also be an issue with clutch cable routing - very tight under the plenum, will need checking before it is attached permanently.

Plenum prep

Before fitting I can do a couple of jobs on the plenum itself, fit my IAC Valve & fit the butterfly valve assembly. The IACV needs 3 holes, and needed to be in a location where I can get to the nuts on the back for assembly. I checked the location to make sure it would also miss the chassis tubes when installed.

Inside, lock nuts so should be little chance of losing them into the engine, and the second picture shows a glimpse of the trumpets on each intake:

Almost ready for fitting (needs the air temp sensor fitting too):

Update - later I opened up the main IACV air inlet hole on the plenum to be larger than pictured here and closer to the actual valve size, i.e. 16mm which lets the IACV have more control over the volume of air let in.

Fuel rail re-work

I didn't like the fuel rail as it was, I also had some specific space issues at the rear end. This area has an engine loom plug, the plenum vacuum outlet and the end of the fuel rail - its really not practical to have the fuel pressure regulator here too:

I moved the OEM fuel pressure regulator to the front of the engine:

Then modified the original return pipe, shortened it and left enough to attach the high pressure fuel line to:

This is the result - I hope its a neater arrangement:

The plenum is only temporarily in place to align everything & let me see how much space there is.

Tidy up - Engine mount & Fuel line run

Engine mount

The nearside mount was tightened up against both the tube standoffs & the projection from the block casting. I wasn't keen on this - the casting wasnt completely square behind the bracket & I wanted a washer between the standoff tubes and the casting too. I re-worked inserting washers so all the stress is taken through the bolts & standoffs & nothing touches the casting projection:

The gap I wanted between the bracket and casting is visible in this shot:

Fuel line run

With the engine in place my original fuel line positioning was too low & close to the bell housing. I decided to re-route slightly higher which nicely misses the bell housing. I also flipped round most of the jubilee clips to be accessible from the top of the engine bay:

I'm thinking about another tie wrap on the left hand side as a backup:

Well clear of the engine/gearbox now:

Rear panel - on !

Third time install for the rear panel is now permanent.

I had to do a little work to adjust the spare wheel holes & re-drill the rivet points on the underside, I also spent some time trying to think of reasons not to install the panel - but I can't think of anything I have forgotten.

Rear loom

As planned I attached the panel to the roll bar stays at the top then could move the panel enough to get my hand between it and the fuel tank to install the loom. I installed the reversing & fog lamp cables + grommets as they pass through the panel. I have the standard GBS loom with plugs on the end of all cables & they just fit through the panel holes one at a time & just through the grommet:

Note, later I decided to use rivnuts for attaching the reversing and fog lamps (instead of the placeholder bolts/nuts in these pictures) and would have fitted them before mounting the panel ideally.

Bond & Rivet

Then bond and rivet, working from the centre to either side along the top shroud:

Double/treble checked the wiring was not pinched before completing the riveting, with the top/bottom & sides riveted the whole rear panel is rock solid: (a little Showroom Shine takes off the fingerprints. (Only buy it when its on offer 2 for 1 though :)

(Still haven't turned that suspension bolt around)

Remains only to fit the internal boot floor panels - after the wiring is completed & tested.

Fuel Filler pipe & cap

The fuel filler pipe is trimmed to fit and jubilee clips between the tank and fuel filler cap. I have the cap with a green insert (built in breather). The fiddle with this job is getting room to tighten the 6x 7mm nuts on the back of the filler - my socket wouldn't get in there but found a spanner the right size in my toolbox:

Quite a few steps to get the rear panel installed & a significant milestone which makes the car look more like a car - rewarding & enjoyable.