Tuesday, 28 March 2017

Dingle, Loop Head to Doonbeg

The weather freshening up today, it feels like I'm going to get soaked at some point! However - onwards, keep the sea to my left and heading north.

Dingle Peninsula

A straightforward route today - follow the Wild Atlantic Way signs along the south coast, to the cross and back along the north.


Cross at Slea Head

Good run until near the very end and I was stuck behind two coaches taking it very gingerly around the single track road, they didn't even stop at the cross - just kept going at around 10-20mph! Noticeably different weather today - still clear enough for views but full waterproofs donned.


Spending a little time on the view to let the coaches get well ahead, the northern return was a more enjoyable run.


Conor Pass


Fast ascent on the empty road, where safe straightening the route by apexing corners, captured on video. Wind at the top was exhilarating, I adore being buffeted by really strong wind - it makes me feel alive.

Although the weather had closed in the clouds were cooperatively staying just a touch higher than the pass so I still had an excellent view! The wind was blowing so hard it knocked the wind deflectors forwards into my mirrors so for a while no rear view.


The wide south ascent contrasting with a single track narrow descent...


A little further on towards Tralee, a tanker and a van - both happily blocking the road and having a chat for literally a couple of minutes. I'm in no rush - neither were they - just go with the flow.

Shannon Ferry

Half an hour crossing across the Shannon another chance to relax and let someone else take the driving responsibility for a while. This shortcut saves a huge amount of time going to Limerick and back.



Loop Head Lighthouse


Surprising sheer cliffs, tufty grass and I was concentrating on not losing my footing when I noticed how close I was to the edge - theres nothing obvious in your eye-line to indicate the sheer cliffs all around - no height reference until you are on top of them.




Bit of a wander walking around the lighthouse's wall, then manage to jump, slip, try to catch myself - but fall completely over, skid on my backside, save myself with my left hand which sinks into the peat!

So quickly jump up - no one saw - and just casually walked back to the car -  nothing to see! 
Just a tourist making a right arse of himself.

Arches of Ross

Returning back along the peninsula's north road a chance to pause stretch my legs with a cliff top walk. At some point there were a number of rock arches here, even pictures of victorian era people sitting on them drinking tea. I saw plenty of stratified rocks - impressive enough - but didn't see any arches left.


Kilkee Cliff Road

The first few turns and low seating position meant I was accelerating towards the sky, literally no visibility of what the road did over the brow and conscious I was right on the edge of the cliffs. Now and again the view would open up and show me the drop to my left - it had to be 10-20 metres - at least high enough to make a mess of anything going over it, and sheer/low enough that there wouldn't be any possibility of getting out of the car in time!

It feels like I'm about 5-10 meteres away from the edge, really not over keen on this bit, it would only take a lapse of concentration for a second or any sort of mechanical issue and I would be over the edge.

...Just a bit of a mount of earth at the side of the road is all that is between me and oblivion!

...cliffs getting lower again - sigh of relief.


Strand Camping Doonbeg

Very friendly owner came out to say hello as soon as I drew up at the campsite. This time there were a few more caravans, but I basically had the pick of the pitches. The car was a bit of a state - combination of a wet day and cattle movement on the roads means she's soon covered in mud, the campsite owner lent me the required cleaning equipment and I got the Zero looking presentable again.

Right on the coast again, this is the view just across the road from the site.

Monday, 27 March 2017

Dursey Sound to Cahersiveen

The original plan was to cross direct north over Healy Pass then west to see the cable car at Dursey Sound. Since I had already driven the pass yesterday evening today's route reverted to a more straightforward - follow the coast road.


Dursey Sound


The weather stayed with me - fantastic blue skies all the way and a nice fast road until the very end where the road weaves through a few houses and to the cable car which crosses to Dursey Island.

Only pictures this time - I didn't fancy the cable car trip. I heard rumours later that cattle are taken across in this contraption too! Quite a current through the narrows between the headland and the island.


Which way? - in-fact there is only one road at this point - back the way I came before branching left to follow the coast north.

The road heading east again before I can go north, stunning views and empty roads, across the water is the next headland, my target before lunchtime.


O'Carroll's Cove

Perfect day, and getting slightly cooked, couldn't find the road up to Moll's gap - closed for some reason, so instead kept on around the coast. I stopped at O'Carroll's on the beach and just relaxed for an hour or so watching the decidedly green sea against a sandy beach you would expect to have to travel much further to see.

Stunning - the sea really is green around Ireland!


Ballinskelligs

Middle of the afternoon and I'm at Ballinskelligs and a small tea shop with more amazing views back across the bay towards the south.


R566 North

Headed north the R566 now climbs and winds it's way up over the headland.

Looking west...



...and then north towards Valentia Island where I'm headed. Its almost impossible to capture in a picture, or two, the panorama just goes on forever!


Honest - wasting my rubber on donuts is not my thing - but careful positioning of the car makes an interesting picture!

Thumbs up and smiles from two walkers headed south as I motored down the other side.


Campsite at Cahersiveen

A little change of plan, my original intended campsite on Valentia Island was not open so onwards via the Knights Town ferry to the Mannix Point Campsite. I was once more the only person staying, good long chat with the caretaker standing in for the owner. A real character with some strong political views but happy to see an interesting car turn up and friendly.

Dinner - my now routine one pot cooking - tea and some sort of pasta.

Damage noted on the Zero, I've lost the nearside indicator lens at some point - the indicator itself is still good, and nothing to be done for now.

After dinner just soaked in the view until the sun set.


Fantastic day!

Sunday, 26 March 2017

Cahir Castle, Mizzen Head and Healy Pass

Up reasonably early at Duncannon, weather is still great with not a cloud in the sky. Lots planned for today - all along the south coast, past Mizzen head

Questions from the public so far include:

Can I take a picture?
To which the answer is, of course, always yes, and sit in the car if you like.

Is that road legal?
Which I understand is because of lack of windscreen discs, Irish cars all seem to have at least 3

Have you got a roof?
Which I could not work out - my luck with the weather is obviously not typical!



Excalibur

First stop is not on the coast road, roughly west, but heading inland to Cahir who's castle was used for some external shots in John Boormans 80s Movie Excalibur, a long time favourite film!
I think the castle appears roughly reverse angle of this shot when Arthur is knighted by Uryens mid battle.



Schull

Past Cork, hit the coast road from Kinsale and then pause at Schull for picnic lunch. Stunning little bay, blue skies, a little wind - but perfect reason to pause for a while and watch owners playing with dogs in the waves.


Mizzen Head

The most westerly point, and time to pause again for a cup of tea (you have to love Ireland for their addiction to tea and ability to produce a decent mug - same as the UK) and a wander around the old Mizzen head station.

Permission sought/granted to pull right up to the visitor centre,

I'm not the greatest with heights and although the bridge to the point is incredibly solid I found myself walking exactly down the middle of it glancing up from my feet only a couple of times! I did manage some pictures - the views still fantastic - but so windy in places I felt sure my phone would be randomly pulled from my hands to never be seen again.

The platform top centre of picture is reachable, and amazingly strong wind - I stood there for a while and just soaked up the view,

Interesting rock formations, both inclined stratified rocks, folds and large flat areas. The sea around Ireland really does appear to be emerald green!


Healy Pass


Then some more miles around the coast road, arriving at my next campsite Hungry Hill on the Beara peninsula. The original plan was to camp then take the road north over Healy pass in the morning, however after chatting with the owner he recomended a trip up directly - the light was still with me and the roads hopefully would be clear around 18:30.

He wasn't wrong - what a run, not the fastest since I was a little tired, not knowing the road and the random factor of sheep but a great run none the less. 
The only other driver going my way let me pass when I got close and then stopped for a chat at the top about the location and the car.


Looking north from the top of the pass you can see forever!


More pillowy rock formations,

Then back the way I came down the south side,

To my now familiar overnight setup at Hungry Hill campsite.
Single pole tent can be put up inside 10 mins, single pot - so boil water, take off enough for tea, then add pasta sachet for evening meal.

The weather still with me, car also running fine - reverse still a little sticky, but no real issues.