Check for the missing valve collet

All procedures followed as per the Haynes Ford Focus manual - this entry is not an instruction,  I'm not listing all the steps or any of the torques, it's merely a record of the procedure.

Process driving after finding a valve collet in the oil pump intake filter, I need to know where it came from.

Dismantle

Plugs removed and checked, they all look clean to me, no discolouration on the insulators, no damage on the electrodes.

First step - engine to #1 cylinder TDC with a rod sitting in spark plug #1 hole as a visual reference to the piston position.

The bearing caps are numbered, I penned in same to make things more obvious, they have to go back in the same place and orientation.

Bearing caps loosened in sequence and removed,

Belt and braces parts laid out as they were removed and labeled Intake/Exhaust/Front etc,

Check the lifters

Looking for a missing collet at the top of the valve stems, the lifters pull out easily with a suction cup.

I checked all 16 but nothing a miss - the collets just visible between the spring cap and the end of the valve shaft at the bottom of each well. 

Good news then! at least I don't have to struggle removing / re-installing valve springs, just need to put it all back together.

The head casting looks rough around the end oil galleries, its the same on all of them so I guess just 'good enough', theres no swarf coming out in oil changes so its not degrading in any way.

Re-assembly

Crank back 90º so the pistons are all clear of the valves, then camshafts placed in and torqued down in stages and in order as per the Haynes manual procedure. The front caps also have sealant around the front edges.

Bearing faces oiled before assembly and all bolts wiped down to ensure no oil on the threads.

Both camshaft oil seals and the cam cover seal replaced at the same time.

Valve timing

I've been here before, just takes concentration to avoid doing something daft or missing a step.

Camshafts sitting the same way up as on disassembly and the locking bar slid in from behind,

Crank locking pin installed in the block and the crank gently turned to sit against it,

Timing belt over the pulleys which are then tightened to lock them in place and finally the tension roller adjusted so its built in indicator arrow lines up with the slot at the back.

As per procedure, remove the timing lock bar and pin then carefully turn the engine via the crank pulley 2x revolutions and double checked/adjusted the belt tension.

Then the sundries:
  Plugs, HT leads, Aux belt, Aux tensioner, nose back on, indicators reconnected.

Done!

On one hand a waste of energy dismantling the top of the engine just to reassembly it. 

On the other I had no choice but to check! 

It would appear someone dropped the collet during the engine build at Ford's Bridgend plant in Wales sometime in 2004.

Took RL13 for a test drive, everything running as it should.

Next job - number place lights have blown and MOT required there's always something :)