Fv651 Tuddal road & Ice at Heddersvatn

Fv651 ~56 miles

The idea was to head towards Tuddal. My chat at the evening meal last night recommended north on this road for better driving - certainly the relatively low road speeds were plenty, these roads now winding in 3 dimensions with a few hairpins thrown in for good measure.

The rainy start giving way now to freezing clouds as we ascend, Fv roads are the ones to look for. The other thing that crosses my mind is - no traffic to speak of and its a long walk back if we have a problem!

Past lakes surrounded with cabins, presumably holiday homes rather than permanent houses.

Concentration - I love the focus required to drive this car in this terrain.

The green rocks are back, unlike Switzerland, these appear to just support green lichen, similar effect though makes the landscape look strange and other worldly. I thought I was near the top so paused for some photos.

Heddersvatn lake

Then over the top and ICE! Now its really cold.

Me taking..

..this pic of my wife in the car taking the previous one. 

I think this is Heddersvatn lake in the background half covered in ice.

Keep smiling!

Hats with ears are must have equipment, it's a fair few degrees above freezing stationary but windchill when moving must take us near 0ºc. Driving the zero I find tops of my legs and face get coldest - feet normally ok under cover and body/backside on the seat are well insulated -  face/nose/ears though no protection at all!

 ~1200 metres high perhaps if the phone is to be trusted.

This is what the Zero is all about - you'd never get this experience with a roof all snuggled inside, or even wrapped up on a motorbike with a helmet on.

Love it.

Next stop Gaustabanan and even higher by rail inside the mountain.

Heddal stave church

~26 miles

Wet this morning, the plan for the day is an anti clockwise loop via Heddal then over the top to Gaustatoppen, Mael then any road that looks interesting back to Flatdal.

Checked the oil - fine, coolant - a little low so topped up - otherwise all good.

Nothing on the road around 10:00 we arrive with time for the mandatory car/location shot.

One heavily creosoted 800 year old church with separate bell tower.

I queried the various roman numerals around some church uprights, seems rather like triggers broom, 800 years means parts of this church have been replaced over time and those numerals are evidence of the outer gallery work done in the 50s.

You expect to meet Theoden around the corner. Wandering through the graveyard incredible norse names on headstones.

Inside the feeling is height and little light from only a few small windows, gloomy but warm timber everywhere.

Left and right doors for men/women with their own motifs and intricate carving,

From a distance the new church I assumed had a random timber roof - its stone tiles though, how much does that weigh?

In the Museum/coffee shop some battle axes who's design appears on the Telemark coat of arms and flag,

...and a piece on Tolkien and how his legend for the UK (Lord of the Rings) borrows heavily from existing tales, legends and Norse characters. (Luckily there were paper copies of the same info in English for reference), nice to see JRRT references though.

Cafe has an exhibit on cutting timber! - all the various saws/axes/splitting methods on display.

Everything is sort of 'calm' here - perfect location for hot chocolate and dry off before the next drive over the mountain.

Starting to see these odd top-heavy barns next to old and new houses (to the right) - must find out what they are!

Inland and the Nutheim guesthouse

Flatdal ~75 miles

Rested with the wander around Langesund which was the perfect sized place to arrive we are headed inland to our Norwegian base for the next few nights, the plan to be central within the Telemark region - cities are no attraction to us on this trip (or any trip for me).

I checked beforehand: Fladal just up the road from Selfjord which has a couple of Petrol garages so starting the day with a full tank is going to be no issue.

Norway orientation

• Light - infact this has been the case since the north of Denmark, sunset is around 10:30/10:40pm and sunrise as early as 04:30 this time of year. Its just never really dark!
• Drivers are really polite/timid - not just the tourists, but the whole feel of driving is nothing like the UK.
• Roads are generally slow, what I'd expect to be a 60mph A road is more 40/50mph tops in Norway with lots of no-overtaking roads that did initially make the going slow. 50mph on the right sort of winding mountain road is no real restriction anyway.
• Unless on a city break you need a car - Norway's tourist offerings are mainly outside - walking/hiking/exploring - and very spaced out.

Masses of relatively empty roads and still great weather for our drive north,

Pictures never really capture the scale of scenery,

The road around Selfjord,

Nutheim Gjestgiveri

We arrived at the hotel around 17:30, still a clear warm day. 

The hotel is located in Flatdal at the top of the Seljord valley on a hairpin absolutely stunning location. Theres nothing here but the hotel - perfect! 

Historically a coaching Inn and before the road moved slightly in the 1980s there was a garage next door. Now they focus on being an arts centre with gallery downstairs. Inside the place has a cosy family run small/hotel guesthouse feeling. Plenty of painted timber as is the way in Norway!

First task, pictures in front of the establishment - and a little to the concern some customers trying to have a quiet coffee as I tried to position the car in exactly the right spot.

Checking in - we lucked out with our room - room #3 is the one to go for at the front of the building with fantastic views down the valley. No sign of the daft UK hotel ranking systems here - so no TV in the room, no kettle - just peace and a comfortable place to relax.

We sat outside with a cold beer, these pictures taken at 18:00 - still 4+ hours of daylight remaining. 

A local art club were meeting and dining at the hotel. We are just visible in the first picture, I am trying to work out what they were painting from the back of the canvas as they took turns to pain't - turned out it was truly freestyle no particular subject. As much the club meeting as producing the artwork. (Hope they don't mind me re-posting their picture here)

 

The food here is excellent (important to keep the crew happy!) - 3 course fixed menu and preceded with, in Norwegian on our first night, the history of the hotel. Norwegian has an interesting sound - its calm, an unhurried rhythm with definite pauses between certain key sounds - very relaxing even though I don't understand a word of it!

We shared a table for the evening meal with a couple from Oslo & Scotland. He had seen RL13 in the carpark so ended up talking cars - he was restoring a Lotus Esprit, very into the outdoors lifestyle, and gave us some excellent local knowledge on places to visit. I found out the banners/streamer flags are flown because a standard Norwegian nation flag can only be flown in daylight hours so would only normally come out for special occasions - however one of those official occasions is your own birthday.

Location check - I think we're actually further north than the Scottish mainland now, furthest north for RL13, and amazing weather considering. Three nights booked here to explore the local area before meandering home.

The target of the road trip accomplished Wales to Norway - car running fine, driver and passenger in good spirits.

Skagerrak crossing and Landfall Langesund

Up early for the ferry across the Skagerrak, Hirtshals is only 20 minutes down the road from our overnight stop. A damp start again but I always feel the pressure when getting close to immovable deadlines and/or relying on a third party - like a ferry sailing.

Ferry across the Skagerrak ~15 mile drive, ~99 mile ferry

When checking in to ferries the scene in Star Wars always comes to mind, Leia first sees the Milenium Falcon when being rescued and has a line something like:
  'You came in that? you're braver than I thought'.
RL13 usually generates a smile even with steely faced passport control!

I do like belt and braces 'you are travelling to Langesund' in my face on the car hanger.

Ferry 3 point turn into the dock.

First order of business - get outside and monitor leaving port and a chance to look around Hirsthals from afar.

Followed by some general wandering on the Helipad deck before settling into a relaxed crossing.

Langesund

A good 3-4 hour crossing. Land ahoy, blue skies and plenty of people on deck taking pictures.

Some WWII fortifications visible off the port side...

...alongside interesting layered/countoured rock formations...

Then the town itself both sides of the inlet

We decided to pause after disembarking, to explore a little, have lunch and avoid following the contents of the ferry down the road for the rest of the afternoon.

By the time we're parked the ferry is still unloading in the distance.

Always interesting to have a mooch around boats...

Small cafe for lunch which doubled as a wool and craft shop. Bonus is inside its more like a front room - sofas, kitchen tables, good and informal.

...and walk it off for half an hour or so on a woodland walk back to the fortifications we saw on the way in at Tangen Fort.

I'm not sure if this would have been a good place to be stationed for the relative peace away from an active front, or worse for being in a rural area surrounded by local resistance?

Nothing here now but broken concrete lined trenches and gun emplacements turned into viewpoints and picnic spots.

Sea legs replaced with land legs we're ready for some more driving.

Update - With hindsight, and sailing out from Kristiansand at the tail end of the road trip, Langesund is a perfect first landing into Norway - small, stereotypical Norwegian town rather than large city. The perfect spot to pause before venturing further in to the country.