Craggy Island, Jewel of the run and the End

Final day, I need to get to Westport at a decent time and meet up with my wife and Daughter, still plenty of time, and plenty of miles to enjoy on the way.

Craggy Island and The Burren

A decidedly wet day today, hunkered down in the car and kept reasonably warm between the downpours. My route leading inland after the Cliffs of Moher across The Burren, a strange landscape of exposed eroded rock. The road very low in places with high water sometimes surrounding me.

Parts of the road just cold and grey - felt like the Dead Marshes from LOTR, and so - once I had that thought I managed to give myself the creeps!

Interesting shell of a house or castle, I think I passed this way at least twice not quite sure of the route. My mood combined with the weather this feels perhaps like the House of Usher from Kidnapped with its stairways to nowhere!

Then - there it was! Just thinking I should stop and double check my satnav and pulling over there is a familiar house. Found it, the house used for external shots of Father Ted's house from the Channel 4 comedy of the same name. It is privately owned so a few photos and I'm headed off again.

R336, R335 - Galway, Maam Cross, Leenaun, Delphi to Louisburgh

Just when I thought I may be just focusing on the finish line - the jewel of the trip.

First a little frustration, the coast road pulled me into and around Galway - nothing against the city - I'm here to drive though not get stuck in traffic!

Then I divert - not around the coast road but towards Maam Cross - and just wow!

The rain from the morning has cleared so drying road and the view just opens up for mile upon mile of that perfect combination of weaving and rolling drivers road.

The striking thing about all the roads - no absolute height, plenty of roads virtually at sea level - but incredible views. Scenery you might expect on a painting just right there in real life.

Old Head Quay

Making good time, hit the coast at Louisburgh then a pause at old head to swap out the car camera SD card and make sure I didn't lose the footage of the drive north.

A quiet bay car on the harbour wall, not a soul around.

Rosmoney Pier

The final stop - Rosmoney Pier west of Westport, a small cottage right on the sea. I met up with my wife and daughter. The Zero parked up for the week while I take a break from driving and we do some standard tourism for a week or so.

This way to corners!

Reference to the most useful sign in Ireland, once you see this its a signal of a patch of excellent twisty roads to enjoy.

Chequered Flag

My finish line, the local Wesport Gaelic Football team's colours combine to provide my souvenir chequered flag. Some great driving, on the way through wales, along the coast and today inland. Weather mostly good - but always permitting a view so no issues there!

Thank you Ireland.
Thank you GN13!

Dingle, Loop Head to Doonbeg

The weather freshening up today, it feels like I'm going to get soaked at some point! However - onwards, keep the sea to my left and heading north.

Dingle Peninsula

A straightforward route today - follow the Wild Atlantic Way signs along the south coast, to the cross and back along the north.

Cross at Slea Head

Good run until near the very end and I was stuck behind two coaches taking it very gingerly around the single track road, they didn't even stop at the cross - just kept going at around 10-20mph! Noticeably different weather today - still clear enough for views but full waterproofs donned.

Spending a little time on the view to let the coaches get well ahead, the northern return was a more enjoyable run.

Conor Pass

Fast ascent on the empty road, where safe straightening the route by apexing corners, captured on video. Wind at the top was exhilarating, I adore being buffeted by really strong wind - it makes me feel alive.

Although the weather had closed in the clouds were cooperatively staying just a touch higher than the pass so I still had an excellent view! The wind was blowing so hard it knocked the wind deflectors forwards into my mirrors so for a while no rear view.

The wide south ascent contrasting with a single track narrow descent...

A little further on towards Tralee, a tanker and a van - both happily blocking the road and having a chat for literally a couple of minutes. I'm in no rush - neither were they - just go with the flow.

Shannon Ferry

Half an hour crossing across the Shannon another chance to relax and let someone else take the driving responsibility for a while. This shortcut saves a huge amount of time going to Limerick and back.

Loop Head Lighthouse

Surprising sheer cliffs, tufty grass and I was concentrating on not losing my footing when I noticed how close I was to the edge - theres nothing obvious in your eye-line to indicate the sheer cliffs all around - no height reference until you are on top of them.

Bit of a wander walking around the lighthouse's wall, then manage to jump, slip, try to catch myself - but fall completely over, skid on my backside, save myself with my left hand which sinks into the peat!

So quickly jump up - no one saw - and just casually walked back to the car -  nothing to see! 

Just a tourist making a right arse of himself.

Arches of Ross

Returning back along the peninsula's north road a chance to pause stretch my legs with a cliff top walk. At some point there were a number of rock arches here, even pictures of victorian era people sitting on them drinking tea. I saw plenty of stratified rocks - impressive enough - but didn't see any arches left.

Kilkee Cliff Road

The first few turns and low seating position meant I was accelerating towards the sky, literally no visibility of what the road did over the brow and conscious I was right on the edge of the cliffs. Now and again the view would open up and show me the drop to my left - it had to be 10-20 metres - at least high enough to make a mess of anything going over it, and sheer/low enough that there wouldn't be any possibility of getting out of the car in time!

It feels like I'm about 5-10 meteres away from the edge, really not over keen on this bit, it would only take a lapse of concentration for a second or any sort of mechanical issue and I would be over the edge.

...Just a bit of a mount of earth at the side of the road is all that is between me and oblivion!

...cliffs getting lower again - sigh of relief.

Strand Camping Doonbeg

Very friendly owner came out to say hello as soon as I drew up at the campsite. This time there were a few more caravans, but I basically had the pick of the pitches. The car was a bit of a state - combination of a wet day and cattle movement on the roads means she's soon covered in mud, the campsite owner lent me the required cleaning equipment and I got the Zero looking presentable again.

Right on the coast again, this is the view just across the road from the site.

Dursey Sound to Cahersiveen

The original plan was to cross direct north over Healy Pass then west to see the cable car at Dursey Sound. Since I had already driven the pass yesterday evening today's route reverted to a more straightforward - follow the coast road.

Dursey Sound

The weather stayed with me - fantastic blue skies all the way and a nice fast road until the very end where the road weaves through a few houses and to the cable car which crosses to Dursey Island.

Only pictures this time - I didn't fancy the cable car trip. I heard rumours later that cattle are taken across in this contraption too! Quite a current through the narrows between the headland and the island.

Which way? - in-fact there is only one road at this point - back the way I came before branching left to follow the coast north.

The road heading east again before I can go north, stunning views and empty roads, across the water is the next headland, my target before lunchtime.

Panorama

O'Carroll's Cove

Perfect day, and getting slightly cooked, couldn't find the road up to Moll's gap - closed for some reason, so instead kept on around the coast. I stopped at O'Carroll's on the beach and just relaxed for an hour or so watching the decidedly green sea against a sandy beach you would expect to have to travel much further to see.

Stunning - the sea really is green around Ireland!

Ballinskelligs

Middle of the afternoon and I'm at Ballinskelligs and a small tea shop with more amazing views back across the bay towards the south.

R566 North

Headed north the R566 now climbs and winds it's way up over the headland.

Looking west...

...and then north towards Valentia Island where I'm headed. Its almost impossible to capture in a picture, or two, the panorama just goes on forever!

Honest - wasting my rubber on donuts is not my thing - but careful positioning of the car makes an interesting picture!

Thumbs up and smiles from two walkers headed south as I motored down the other side.

Campsite at Cahersiveen

A little change of plan, my original intended campsite on Valentia Island was not open so onwards via the Knights Town ferry to the Mannix Point Campsite. I was once more the only person staying, good long chat with the caretaker standing in for the owner. A real character with some strong political views but happy to see an interesting car turn up and friendly.

Dinner - my now routine one pot cooking - tea and some sort of pasta.

Damage noted on the Zero, I've lost the nearside indicator lens at some point - the indicator itself is still good, and nothing to be done for now.

After dinner just soaked in the view until the sun set.

Fantastic day!